How To Crochet Baby Booties (Complete Guide)

A hand-made gift from your heart will always be a specialist and meaningful gift for your babies forever. Are you looking for an amazing idea for gifts for your little angels this Christmas? Crocheting a pair of these cute and classic baby booties is a great suggestion to welcome a new Christmas. This free crochet pattern will show you how to make soft and stretchy crochet booties that will be comfortable and cozy for babies to wear. These easy crochet baby booties are so cute and can be the perfect gift for both a baby girl and a baby boy. Here is how to crochet baby booties

Crochet Baby Booties Pattern

Are you looking for a cute and classic crochet baby pattern? Then this free baby bootie crochet pattern is perfect for your job. These cute little booties are an adorable baby shower gift and a great addition to any baby’s wardrobe.

This professionally edited pattern will explain to you everything you need to know to make basic baby booties.  It’s a gender-neutral design that you can customize to suit the little girl or boy in your life. And, of course, you can adapt the pattern to fit all different sizes of little feet.

Why do I Find This Pattern Attractive?

The booties have a ribbed, fold-down cuff to keep little feet warm and cozy without sacrificing style. (The stretchy ribbing also helps the booties stay on tiny feet!) I also like that these boots are made with worsted weight yarn, so they work up quickly when you need a last-minute present.

Best Yarn for Baby Booties

Baby booties are such a special item, and I’m sure you want to choose the best yarn for this work.

When thinking about what kind of yarn to use to make baby booties, choose something that is super soft, hypo-allergenic, and washable.

Wool yarns can be too scratchy for babies’ soft skin. And cotton yarns tend to work up too stiff.

So, premium acrylic yarns are a great option for creating crochet baby booties. Yarn with a smooth, soft texture tends to be the best selection for babies. One way to check if your yarn is soft enough, rub it on your cheek or neck. If you feel soft, it will be soft enough for the baby’s feet too.

I selected to use a worsted-weight yarn for this pattern. You can choose whatever brand you like best, as long as you check your gauge.

Lovely Baby Booties Pattern

I know plenty of people start learning crochet to make items for their babies. So following this pattern, I wanted to make an easy beginner-friendly baby bootie pattern that moms would love.

This is a simple, modern baby bootie pattern that is perfect to make for baby shower gifts, Christmas, and many other occasions. It’s a gender-neutral design that you can change with different colors of yarn.

Baby Booties Size Chart

Another thing you need to know is that all babies grow at different rates. See if you can measure your baby’s feet for the most accurate fit. Remember to add up to a half-inch of extra wiggle room in order to calculate the correct sole size.

I suggest working up the entire sole section of the pattern and measuring its length to check the gauge. (The sole section is only 3 rounds, so it will go quickly!) In this way, you’ll know if you need to go up or down a hook size.

AgeSole SizeRecommend Hook
Newborn3.5E/3.5mm
0-3 Months3.75G/4mm
3-6 Months4.25H/5mm
6-12 Months4.75J/6mm

Classic Baby Booties Crochet Pattern

Level: Beginner to Easy

Finished Size: 3 months (3.75″ sole length) See the chart above for more sizes.

Materials

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4)

Crochet Hook:  G/4mm hook to make a 3.75″ long bootie

You’ll also need: 

  • yarn needle
  • stitch markers, if desired
  • ruler or tape measure, if desired

Stitches and Abbreviations

  • SL st – slip stitch
  • st/sts – stitch/stitches
  • ch – chain
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdchalf double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together
  • hdc2tog – half double crochet two stitches together
  • dc2tog – double crochet two stitches together
  • BLO – back loops only

Special Stitches

In my experiences, I realized that regular hdc2tog stitches could look a little too bulky, especially for small jobs like baby booties. Here is a different way to make a half-double decrease in an invisible way. This is similar if you are familiar with invisible single crochet decreases for amigurumi.

Invisible HDC decrease:

Step 1: Yarn over.

Step 2: Insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch of the decrease.

Step 3: Insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch of the decrease.

Step 4: Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook.

Step 5: Yarn over and draw through the last three loops on the hook.

You can use this stitch whenever I call for a hdc2tog decrease in the pattern.

Pattern Notes

  • This pattern is written in US/American terms.
  • The sole and the upper section are written in joined rounds. (You will not turn the work in between rounds.)
  • The cuff section is written in rows. (You will turn the work in between rows.)
  • Use a stitch marker to mark your first stitch of the row/round.
  • At the end of each round, join the round with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the same round.
  • Chain 1 to begin a round. Chain 1 does not count as a stitch.

How to Read a Crochet Pattern?

Crochet patterns are written using many abbreviations and terms, which save space and make patterns easier to read. You can refer some tips here:

  • Unless the pattern indicates otherwise, assume that you move on to the next stitch. For example, “3 hdc” means to work 1 hdc into each of the next 3 stitches. If the pattern wants you to work 3 dc all into the same place, it will say “3 dc in next st”
  • ( ) Parentheses are used to indicate a group of stitches that are to be worked together into a stitch.
  • [ ] Brackets are used to tell you how many times to work a certain step. The number immediately following the brackets tells you how many times to do the step.
How to Read a Crochet Pattern

Sole Section

Round 1: Ch 10. In the second ch from the hook, make 2 hdc. 7 hdc. In the last ch, make 5 hdc. Continuing around the other side of the starting ch, make 7 hdc. Make 2 hdc in the last ch. Join with an Sl st to the top of the first hdc. (23 sts)

Round 2: Ch 1. In the same st, make 2 sc. 2 sc in the next st. 4 sc, 3 hdc. 2 hdc in each of the next 5 sts. 3 hdc, 4 sc. 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts. Join with an Sl st to the top of the first sc. (32 sts).

Baby Booties

Round 3: Ch 1. Starting in the first stitch, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 7 hdc, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 7 hdc, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times. Join with an Sl st to the top of the first hdc. (42 sts).

Baby booties

Upper Section

The upper section is done in joint rounds. Each round will begin with a ch-1, which does not count as a stitch.

Important: Start each round by making the first crochet stitch into the same stitch as the ch-1. Continue around.

When you get to the end of the round, join the first stitch with a slip stitch.

Here is a picture to illustrate the joins.

How To Crochet Baby Booties

Round 4: Ch 1. (Does not count as a stitch here or in the rounds that follow.) Hdc blo in the same st and in each st around. Join with an sl st to the top of the first hdc. (42 sts)

Round 5: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in each st around. Join with an Sl st to the top of the first sc. (42 sts)

Round 6: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 10 sts, hdc, [hdc2tog, hdc] two times, [dc2tog, dc] three times, dc2tog, [hdc, hdc2tog] two times, hdc, 6 sc. Join with an sl st to the top of the first sc. (34 sts)

Round 7: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 12 sts, hdc, hdc2tog, 4 dc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc, 7 sc. Join with an Sl st to the top of the first sc. (28 sts)

Round 8: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 11 sts, hdc, 4 dc2tog, hdc, 6 sc. Join with an Sl st to the top of the first sc. (24 sts)

Notes: Most new makers are having trouble with their decreases looking asymmetrical or off-center. Here are some suggestions:

  • First, and most importantly: The first stitch of each round must be made in the same stitch as the ch-1.
  • Second, be aware that the last stitch of Round 5 will be about 2-3 stitch lengths to the right of the center. This is normal – the shifting seam is caused by the shape of crochet stitches – especially the hdc stitches. To compensate for the slanted seam, I’ve offset the decrease section in Round 6. This moves the decrease section over a few stitches so that the decreases line up exactly with the center midline of the sole.
7

Ribbed Cuff Section

The cuff section is worked in rows. Rows of back-loop single crochet create a flexible ribbing that you can fold down to make a cuff.

Note: The rows of ribbing are anchored to the previous round (“Upper” Round 8) by making a slip stitch at the start or end of the row.

Row 1: Ch 9. Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc 8. (8 sts).

8

Slip stitch into the next stitch of Round 8 of the Upper Section. This slip stitch anchors the row of single crochet you just made to the stitches from the last round of the bootie’s upper section.

Then, make another slip stitch into the next stitch of Round 8 of the Upper Section. This second slip stitch counts as the turning chain for the next row.

Row 2: Don’t chain 1, as the slip stitch you’ve just made counts as your turning chain. Rotate the bootie counterclockwise so that your working yarn crosses in front of your work. Pass the working yarn in front of your hook and to the back of your work. (See the picture above for clarification.)

Tip: I take this extra step of turning the work counterclockwise and passing the yarn in front of the hook to minimize a bump you can get when working this add-on ribbing technique.

Starting in the third stitch from your hook (remember, skipping over those two slip stitches), make 8 sc-blo.

Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Starting in the second stitch from the hook, make 8 sc-blo. Slip stitch into the next stitch from “Upper” Round 8. Make another slip stitch into the next stitch from “Upper” Round 8.

Row 4 and all even rows: Follow directions from Row 2.

Row 5, and all odd rows: Follow directions from Row 3.

Completion

When you have made 24 rows of ribbing, cut yarn and pull it through.

Leave a long tail of yarn and use it to seam the two ends of the ribbed cuff section.

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